What’s up winos,
Good weekend? Mine was… dramatic. Went out on the lash with Fionn and Gabriel on Sunday and had one too many bottles of Labet (flex) and ended up smacking my head on an iron pole and spending the evening in urgent care. Don’t worry! I’m fine, I’m alive, I still have most of my brain cells (can’t blame their diminishment on the pole anyway, think the Labet is responsible for that). The doctor made me walk in a straight line with my eyes closed to check my brain wasn’t bleeding. I don’t think I can do that anyway, haemorrage or not, but he seemed happy enough. Got a nice little bump on my nice little head now. Just when I was going to grow my fringe out!
On to more important things. We are sitting on some world class Chardy at the moment, and I want to share the love. I feel personally victimised by Chardonnay’s unfairly negative reputation, so I’m out here doing God’s work trying to rehabilitate it. And goddamn, do these wines rehabilitate it.
We got in a nice little top up of Henri Chauvet the other day, lucky us, lucky you. Chauvet used to be a banker (lame) (no offence if you’re a banker) before he saw the light and headed off to Auvergne to make natural wine. The dream! He made this move in 2021. Doing some maths? Yeah, I didn’t get it either, but turns out he took over an already established winery formerly belonging to Annie Sauvat, meaning he was able to start cooking up the good stuff the second he walked through the door. His domaine is 10.5 hectares of pretty varied soils – volcanic lava, marl in a wide variety of colours, and limestone, oh my! Makes sense then that his philosophy is to express this varied terroir through his wines. His Chardonnay kicks every goal available – citrus fruit, stone fruit, bread, yeast, whoops, bottle’s gone. He also makes some pretty gorge Pinot and Gamay, but we’re not talking about those right now. Stop distracting me!
Up in Chablis, we’ve got our last few bottles of Domaine Pattes Loup just sitting on the shelf waiting to be taken to their forever home. I like ‘Vent d’Ange’ coz it’s clever – it means ‘angel wind’ but it also sounds like ‘vendanges’ which means harvest. I love word play! Winemakers are such nerds. This was a late bottling after hanging out for an impressive 30 months on the lees, and it’s salty and citrusy with just a touch of honey to keep things interesting. How we still have any of this left is beyond me. What, you guys don’t like wine anymore? What are you doing?
We’re also sitting on a nice little stash of Goisot. If I haven’t bent your ear about Goisot before, I’m about to – they’re basically the most bargain estate in Burgundy, because their domaine is based in Saint Bris, which was exiled from the appellation after a phylloxera outbreak at the end of the nineteenth century. This basically means that Goisot’s wines are up there with the Burgundy gods in terms of quality, but down here on earth with us mere mortals in terms of price. Case in point – the ‘Gondonne’ bottling comes from cuttings taken from the Grand Cru holdings of Raveneau and Dauvissat, which are big names, don’t ya know. With parents like that, this wine was never going to be anything short of stunning. ‘Faucertaine’ and ‘Gueules de Loup’ are also well worth a look, particularly since, much like with the Gondonne, we’re the best and have done all the cellaring for you already. What did you do to deserve us?!
Finally, don’t sleep on getting your tickets to our tasting with Mick Craven. I know you’re dithering, being like, oooh, I don’t know what I’m doing on that Tuesday (you’re not doing anything on that Tuesday) but when the day comes I know you’ll be in my DMs crying coz you didn’t get a ticket. Don’t be that guy. Be the guy with a ticket.
Gotta go, gotta go stare at my forehead bump in the mirror and develop a complex about it.