César Márquez, Godello 'La Salvación' 2021

It's fair to say he was born into a pretty decent wine family. The name Pérez has been synonymous with Spanish winemaking for 300-odd years. They founded the Castro Ventosa winery back in 1752, and still own it today. Their access to prime sites throughout Bierzo is unprecedented. César learned from his uncle Raúl (one of the most influential Spanish vignerons, ever), before striking out with his own label in 2015. He's structuring his wines with a nod to Burgundy, as are most of the inspiring younger producers at the moment. Appellation wine, village wine, cru wine... Organic farming, a mixture of whole bunch and destemmed fruit where necessary, reductive winemaking and low SO2.