Bodega Marañones, Treintamil Maravedíes 2018
Outrageously pure fruited, old-vine Garnacha. This is breath-taking in its quality. So moreish yet complex! How good is Grenache. I honestly can't believe this is less than £20, mental. Intensity is no issue here, but instead of going all jammy and sweet here we get refreshing florals and herbal edge. Seriously. This is it.
Bodega Marañones is located in San Martín de Valdeiglesias, a sub-region of the Vinos de Madrid DO. Young winemaker Fernando ‘Fer’ Garcia has been heavily influenced by the biodynamic wines of the Loire and Burgundy, so it is no great surprise that his old vine Garnacha, Syrah and Albillo wines have a balanced freshness and sense of place. The wines are a pure expression of each variety and terroir. Undoubtedly one of Spain’s most talented up and coming winemakers.
From The Natty Boy
I’m a huge fan of this producer, they’re based in the Gredos hills near Madrid. This is one of those regions demonstrating what altitude can do for a region in such a generally hot climate, and there’s no escaping the summer heat in central Spain. Garnacha is king in the Gredos, and it’s planted as scattered bush vines in these sandy, granitic mountains which rise to over 800m. All the guys here have Burgundy as their wine apex, so most have decided to classify their vineyards and subsequent wines as Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru rather than focussing on the traditional method of oak ageing as classification that we find in places like Rioja. This is very much the heartland of the new wave Spanish movement, and producers like Maranones, Commando G and Dani Landi are well worth seeking out. Viticulture is organic and biodynamic and the vines are between 30 and 80 years old in different plots. Grenache, when planted on sand, produces an ethereal wine that when it ages ends up tasting a lot like top quality Pinot Noir. Unlike most Spanish red produced in these central regions there is ample freshness in these wines, with red and brambly fruit overlaying tonnes of savoury spice. I’m always immediately taken by the colour of this, mostly how translucent it is, almost burnt. Such a great wine.