Camillo Donati, Trebbiano Secco 2020
Incredibly savoury aromatics, classic citrus and stone fruit and lightly herbal finish. So where the other wines from Camillo are vivacious and fruit forward, here we get a more citric, saline thing going on. Savoury, moreish, a bit more serious. Why so serious? Not that serious, just seriously good to sip on.
Camillo Donati produces outstanding natural fizz in the Ancestral Method from biodynamically farmed vineyards in Emilia Romagna. The wines are lively and incredibly vinous, making them great for food pairing. They are bottled unfined and unfiltered so will be cloudy, and are also vegan friendly. Incredibly savoury with almost nutty aromatics, this shows classic citrus and stone fruit character of Trebbiano alongside a lightly herbal finish. Very fresh, it dances along the palate with light grip and gentle effervescence.
From The Natty Boy
A family estate in Emilia Romagna, now run by Camillo and his wife. They focus entirely on minimal intervention sparkling wine production, which is very much a rarity but perhaps what more producers of pet-nat style wines should be doing! Fizz tends to require a deft hand, and the consistency achieved here is outstanding. E-R is most famous for Lambrusco production, of which Camillo makes an awesome one, but there is a myriad of white varieties planted here too, which often go into some fairly ordinary regional blends that line the supermarket shelves. Picked a bit earlier as in Champagne to preserve acidity, these make excellent fizz material. Fermentation/carbonation occurs by the traditional method of refermentation in bottle, which means they can get away without adding any SO2. The wines are not filtered and have no dosage, so will have a sediment in the bottle - this is largely where they differ from the likes of Franciacorta and Prosecco. This is from the winemaker: “Sparkling wines had been made the same way for centuries, but in the 70's everyone started producing frizzante wines with the charmat method. I believe that charmat kills the wine. A dead wine goes into the bottle, and many, many preservatives are needed to keep the wine going for 6 or 7 months. On the other hand, a natural frizzante wine can last 10, 15, 20 years. Logically, you will no longer have predominant fruit after the 3 or 4 years where the secondary and tertiary aromas surface, but the wine is alive and it ages and matures slowly, just like we do. If I kill a wine beforehand just so that I don't have sediments or to have clarity, then what is the point? Charmat is a dead wine that cannot go beyond 6 months to a year. After that it becomes undrinkable because it's dead. A chemical preservative is not capable of sustaining something dead”. The quality here speaks for itself. A bit of skin contact in the initial fermentation adds even more interest, and you get all the yeasty quality of good classic fizz too. These are awesome.