Jean-François Ganevat, 'Madelon' 2018
Bright and juicy with a core of dark fruit flavours and lovely clarity and intensity. Amazing.
Jean-François Ganevat is one of the leading natural producers in the world, with the domaine based in Jura, France. The scarcity of their wines, and the minimal quantities produced has thankfully led to the production of a range of negoce wines each year under the Anne & Jean-François Ganevat label, with grapes sourced from organic growers throughout France. Madelon is a blend of Gamay from Morgon, Beaujolais, alongside a swathe of indigenous varieties to Jura. As with all the negoce wines it’s unashamedly bright and juicy with a core of dark fruit flavours and lovely clarity and intensity.
Profile: Gamay has been best known for producing fresh and fruity wines for early consumption. This is now changeing, with the natural wine movement in Beaujolais, and more producers placing more emphasis on high quality production meaning Gamay has enjoyed a renaissance of sorts. Wines now show racy acidity alongside richness of fruit and clear minerality. Plantings are increasing outside of France, with producers in Australia, New Zealand and USA producing wines in a range of styles.
Classic Regions: Beaujolais, Loire Valley (France), Yarra Valley (Australia), Central Otago (New Zealand), USA
Jean Francois Ganevat
In 1999, Ganevat converted his property to biodynamic viticulture. In 2006 he completely eliminated the use of sulphur. He says the resulting wines are much better and fresher (no mushroom or buttery notes), lighter on their feet and more expressive. This achievement is only possible with clean fruit and proper vineyard management (15 people work full time the 13 hectares of vine) and spotless clean equipment. Since 2013, Jean-François also buys fruit from a total of 10 trusted growers, all of them friends, including two ex-employees who worked for him for many years. The “negoce” was started with his sister Anne to respond to lower yields and increasing climate events (hail among others).