Domaine Gross, 'Tryo' 2022

In the picturesque village of Gueberschwihr, a hop and a skip from Colmar, Vincent Gross and his father Rémy oversee 10 hectares of vines, which they grew from Vincent's grandfather's original 2.5. They work biodynamically, hand-harvesting everything, and seek to express their grapes' aromatic nature above all else. They produce only crémant and macerated wines these days, the latter of which they began in 2016, when weather conditions made the production of dry white wine tricky. A visit to Friuli gave Vincent the inspiration to experiment with longer maceration, and since '21 he has also been giving qvevri a go. These are serious, delicious wines, with the northern Italian influence evident in the oranges, and the history and expertise of the domaine clear in the crémants.