Lucien Aviet, Melon à Queue Rouge 2022

When your dad’s nickname is Bacchus (literally the god of wine and general raucous behaviour, for those not in the know), it goes without saying that his will be pretty big shoes to fill. Luckily, Vincent Aviet is up to the task. His father Lucien was one of the first vignerons to bottle his wine in Montigny-les-Arsures, just north of Arbois in the Jura, and together the Aviets are among the few Trousseau specialists in the region. They make five cuvées from it, each from a different terroir, all from old, low-yielding vines. They’re such big dogs that they sell 97% of their wines to private customers – so if you get your hands on one of these, count yourself lucky.