Domaine Bernard Defaix, Chablis 1er Cru 'Côte de Léchet' VV 2021

Place: Chablis, France

Grape: Chardonnay

Vibe: Classic, textural

Alrighty then. 50 year old vines and 40% of the juice is aged in oak (no new oak though). Voluminous, intense and powerful. This punches so far above the price bracket it isn't funny. So much focus and drive – the lees ageing has added another dimension, fleshing things out, but we're never left in doubt of its Chablissiene origins, with that saline, brine-laden acid line dicing things up. Needs some time to show its full potential. ABV: 13%