Benoit Courault, 'Tabeneaux' Cabernet 2020
Vin de France x Vin de Soif! Bistro juice of the highest order here, designed to be served slightly chilled alongside a feast for the ages. It is all that, and more. This is a wine of lift and beauty, with none of that gross greenness of cool climate Cab. Floral, juicy fruited and spicy. Very good.
Benoit doesn't come from a winemaking family, so in this part of the world he was set on the backfoot. Following a few years studying in Beaune, as well as drinking pretty widely and being particularly inspired by the wines of Metras and Derain, he went to work for Eric Pfifferling of l'Anglore. Take my word for it, this is as good an education as one can get. He's now based in the Anjou, Loire Valley, focussing on Chenin Blanc et al. Vineyard work is given the highest priority (a theme you'll find at every great estate), which allows for a hands-off approach in the winery. Tiny amounts of SO2 for stability - good man. These are really pure and expressive wines, a joy to drink.